Archive for the ‘Food’ Category

The people cry “Bread! Bread!”

Monday, July 4th, 2011

I encountered this at the local grocery store. In case you can’t tell by the label, this is a chocolate cake made in the shape of a hamburger (complete with little white icing dots for the sesame seeds on the bun). Those are “french fries” on the left: they appear to be made from bread cut into rectangles and darkly toasted. I believe the “ketchup” is actually red icing.

No, I didn’t buy one (they had several of these, in both chocolate and white flavors): it was $20, and not something I’d eat by myself. Frankly, it makes me kind of bilious.

Yet another food note.

Monday, June 27th, 2011

This weekend was an off one for the Saturday Dining Conspiracy (and, yes, I know I’m behind on the website, but I’m hoping to get caught up soon).

A bunch of folks went to Machu Picchu in Pflugerville, and I heard good reports from them.

I, on the other hand, drove down to San Antonio with my sainted mother and spent a long hard day book shopping at the various Half-Price Books locations. Oh, the agony.

Anyway, while we were there, we had a very good meal at Mr. Cod. This is a place that appears to have aspirations of becoming a chain, but currently only has one location. The restaurant is tucked back in a strip center, and the decor isn’t much to look at. We’re talking your basic English fish and chips place here.

But the fish is good. Really, really good. My mother said she thought it was as good as Tino’s Seafood: I think I’d have to give Tino’s a slight edge, but that still makes Mr. Cod’s fish the second best fried fish I’ve ever had.

Enthusiastically recommended if you’re in the San Antonio area.

Prose from Dover.

Friday, June 24th, 2011

Tyler Cowen at Marginal Revolution linked to this “Dover Sole Price Guide 2011“, which, in turn, led us to “The Price Hike“, Ryan Sutton’s website tracking price changes at restaurants. We’re still wading through “The Price Hike”, but it looks interesting (although pretty NYC-centric).

We are particularly fond of this entry, “Ten Rules For Better Pricing“, especially #5:

Include Prices on Online Food Menus: I have no idea how much dinner at L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon in Midtown will cost because there are no online prices on the Four Seasons website, on the Robuchon website, on Opentable.com or on Menupages.com. That takes chutzpah for a venue where tasting menus for two with pairings will cost over $700 after tax and tip.

Mr. Sutton also has a companion site, “The Bad Deal“; quoting that site’s first entry,

We save you money by highlighting BAD DEALS on Groupon, Gilt, Living Social, Savored and elsewhere.

There’s not much there at the moment, and we suspect “The Bad Deal” may have the same NYC specific orientation, but we still plan to keep an eye on both of Mr. Sutton’s sites.

After action report: Orlando, FL.

Thursday, June 23rd, 2011

As I alluded to previously, but did not make explicit, I spent much of the past week out of town. Specifically, I was in lovely Orlando, Florida, where the natives experience a curious phenomena involving water falling from the sky. They even have a word for it: “rain”.

(Actually, things have improved slightly in Austin since I returned, but we’re still in a drought, and they’re not going to bring back the fireworks this 4th. Oh, well.)

I was in Orlando for the annual convention of the Smith and Wesson Collector’s Association. I’d love to be able to talk more about some of the nifty stuff I saw there, but the S&WCA doesn’t really like having this stuff discussed on open Internet forums. (I think they see open discussion of what goes on at the conventions, as well as other member-only information, as being a disincentive to people joining. In other words, if you want to know all the inside S&W history like production numbers or shipping dates, or what goes on at the conventions, join the club.)

(And you really should, if you have a serious interest in S&W collecting. The S&WCA is a good organization that deserves your support.)

So if I can’t talk about the convention in detail, what can I talk about? Well, I can talk about what worked and what didn’t. I have to say that this was about as perfect a trip as I’ve had in a long time. With the exception of things being slightly tight getting to the gate in Austin for the flight out, and leaving some medication at home, everything went smooth as silk. (Well, okay, the flights on “Latvian People’s Airlines, Your Cattle-car In the Sky”, were packed to the gills with families flying to Disney. But I knew the job was dangerous when I took it.)

My travel configuration hasn’t changed much since my last two trips. The only significant addition is that I now have a smart phone. And, in spite of my issues with Android (which will probably be the subject of a longer post in the future), I have to say; a smart phone for travel is nearly worth its weight in gold. Being able to find things (like a restaurant, or a Wells Fargo ATM) wasn’t the only advantage; the Orlando Airport Marriott was charging $14 a day for wireless Internet access. Easy Tether Pro literally paid for itself the first day I was there, and every day after that was like money in the bank. I heartily endorse this product and/or service, and, yes, you can get EasyTether in the Amazon Android app store.

Speaking of finding restaurants, food in Orlando was mostly just okay. The association has a cocktail party on Thursday night, and the hotel food there was pretty good (conch fritters, yum), but the Saturday banquet dinner was just not to my taste. I had a couple of fast food lunches with friends at Chipolte and Wendy’s, which were pretty much what you’d expect at each.

The best meals I had were at:

  • Sonny’s Real Pit Bar-B-Q, which is a chain, but a regional one, serving mostly pork based barbecue at very reasonable prices.
  • The Bonefish Grill near the hotel. Bonefish is also a chain, and a pretty large one; the holding company also owns Fleming’s, Outback, Carrabba’s, and Roy’s. That aside, I thought my fish (the imperial longfish) was a solid choice, even if it wasn’t local. (My close friend who was unofficially hosting the meal got slightly indignant when he found out the shrimp was from China. His indignation, however, was exceeded by that of a fellow diner who was offended by the 18% gratuity added to our checks.)
  • Big Fin Seafood, the directions to which Google Maps on Android gets wrong wrong wrongity-wrong. Not that I’m bitter or anything. The blue crab crusted grouper was very good (and local!) and I enjoyed my meal very much. But (with a slice of key lime pie, soup, and a half-dozen oysters, plus tax and tip) the meal came to as much as a dinner at Fleming’s or Ruth’s Chris. It was good, but I’m not sure it was quite that good.

I have some photos I took on the grounds of the National UDT/SEAL Museum (another product and/or service I heartily endorse, and which deserves your support) and will probably be posting those to Flicker once I’ve had a chance to import and clean them up some.

I didn’t do as much reading on the trip as I usually do, but I did finish Chinaman’s Chance, the first of the Ross Thomas novels about Artie Wu (pretender to the throne of China), his partner Quincy Durant, and Otherguy Overby. As far as I know, the Wu/Durant books are the only series Thomas wrote (edited to add 6/27: I realized over the weekend that I had forgotten the Padillo/McCorkle novels, which started with The Cold War Swap); I don’t like Chinaman’s Chance as much as I like some of his non-series books, such as The Fools in Town Are on Our Side and The Fourth Durango, but it is a perfectly fine read for an airplane or a beach.

I’m working my way through The Modern Day Gunslinger: The Ultimate Handgun Training Manual (a book I was previously unaware of, and which I found at the UDT/SEAL Museum). I don’t think I’m going to review that, as I don’t feel like I have the level of expertise to be able to do an intelligent review. However, I am considering commissioning a review for the site; if I pull the trigger (so to speak) on that, I’ll let you know. I will say that, so far, I haven’t found anything that contradicts what I’ve read elsewhere, my experience, or the training I’ve had from experts.

On the road again…

Thursday, June 16th, 2011

Yesterday was a travel day: I’m in an undisclosed location, doing stuff I can’t talk about right now. Blogging is uncertain; it depends on schedules and what-not.

However, I did want to note the following:

‘Tis a mystery indeed.

Friday, May 20th, 2011

To paraphrase something Hunter S. Thompson never said, “The restaurant business is a cruel and shallow money trench, a long plastic hallway where thieves and pimps run free, and good men die like dogs. There’s also a negative side.”

Take, for example, the strange case of Eric Farber.

Mr. Farber owns (owned?) a place called Plus Four Dining in Georgetown (now closed). Plus Four was on the first floor of a building; the second floor of the building is occupied by the Landmark Tavern, and Landmark’s owner also owns the building itself.

The owner was also trying to evict Mr. Farber, charging default of the lease, insufficient property insurance, and breach of an agreement not to disrupt Landmark’s business…

…according to the letter, which claimed that Farber had climbed a tree next to the upstairs balcony “and encouraged the patrons on the balcony to come downstairs for better prices.”

Farber had stopped people entering the building and encouraged them to go to his restaurant rather than the Tavern, according to the letter.

Farber was appealing the eviction, claiming that Landmark’s customers were too loud for his customers and that the ceiling insulation was inadequate, as well as water leaks and drainage problems in the building. Farber also claims that the owner refused to make repairs and “fabricated the claim that Tenant owed Landlord money for the electric bill.” Farber also apparently filed complaints against the Landmark with TABC.

Sounds like a fairly standard dispute, right? Up until 3:30 AM last week, when Farber was found on the street with a bloody face and no pants.

In a curious coincidence, the police were also called out to a criminal complaint at the Landmark…

“Someone had gone on the roof of the building and apparently taken some lights and satellite dishes and thrown them off the building,” [Georgetown PD Captain Kevin] Stofle said. “We haven’t come into contact with anyone who knows for sure what happened. We don’t know if Farber was up there and fell off.”

Curious. Curious, indeed.

(Hattip: Mom.)

Roadtrip!

Saturday, May 14th, 2011

Yesterday was the 2011 installment of the annual BBQ Road Trip. (Previously.) This year’s edition went out to Texas Pride Barbecue in Adkins, near San Antonio. (Sorry about the auto-play video on that website; I don’t like it any more than you do.) After the jump, photos and commentary.
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Investigative reporting!

Wednesday, May 11th, 2011

We were planning to try out Dominick’s Italian Restaurant in Lakeway this weekend. Dominick’s was formerly known as Ciola’s, but last year the Ciola family sold the restaurant. Lawrence was going to call ahead for reservations, but told me this afternoon that he didn’t get any answer when he called the phone seemed to be disconnected.

We had not seen this report from Rob Balon’s web site:

…[The owner] has decided to return to Kansas.

And I was in kind of a foul mood (for reasons unrelated to dining) and figured a drive out to Lakeway and dinner at Pao’s would help. (It didn’t, much.) Since Dominick’s was on the way, I could see for myself what was going on.

What was going on was that there was a lockout notice on the door, dated May 6, 2011, from a lawyer who apparently represents the former owners. It looks like Dominick’s was subleasing the space from the owners of Ciola’s (who, one can assume, are making their own lease payments to the owners of the space), and were locked out because they owed the following:

  • $6,015.63 for May 2011 rent.
  • $645.82 for April 2011 water bill.
  • $2,882.64 as payment on a promissory note for April 2010.
  • $6,382.64 as payment on a promissory note for May 2010.
  • $278,420.16 as payment on a promissory note for July 2010 (!)

So apparently, Dominick’s has owed over a quarter of a million dollars for close to a year (according to Balon, the sale took place in July of 2010), Ciola’s let the money go this long, and finally moved to shut them down on one of the busiest dining out nights of the week. Interesting.

Also interesting is the amount of money. $275,000+ is a lot of money. As Lawrence put it, “Christ, for a quarter-million you should be able to easily open up your own restaurant just about anyplace but downtown Manhattan…”. I’ll admit to not being an expert on the restaurant business, but certainly $250,000 seems like it should be enough to open a restaurant, especially if you’re using an existing restaurant space (one that doesn’t need to be renovated to be brought up to code). And that’s just the amounts that were not paid; we have no idea how much money changed hands before signatures were affixed to contracts.

I’m not blogging this because I want to poke fun at either the new or old owners; I have some sympathy for both parties. But I think this is blog worthy for the insight it provides into restaurant economics. $6,000 a month for a moderately sized space in Lakeway? $650 a month just for water? How much spaghetti do you have to sell to bring in that kind of money?

(Oh, yeah: the new owners never bothered to change the large sign out in front of the center that said “Ciola’s”, though they did change the name on the awning in front of the building.)

“It’s not a balloonl It’s an airship!”

Wednesday, May 4th, 2011

Slow news day. But I did find this LAT article interesting: Goodyear has commissioned three new blimps.

The replacements will be longer (246 feet versus 192 feet), will fly faster (73 mph versus 54 mph) and have more gondola seats (13 versus seven, including pilot).

I wasn’t aware you could get 54 mph out of a blimp, much less 73 mph. (According to Wikipedia, that’s close to the cruising speed of a Piper Cub.)

I’m sure it comes as no great shock to anyone except me that ZLT Zeppelin Luftschifftechnik has a web site. At least, I think that’s their web site.

Check out the link to Zeppelin Hangar FN. Their online menus even have prices!

(Probably unnecessary subject line hattip.)

Notes on Full English.

Sunday, May 1st, 2011

I’ve been driving past Full English for a couple of months now. It’s located behind a convenience store/gas station on Manchaca, very close to Tex-Guns (official purveyor of arms to WCD). However, I hadn’t had a chance to stop in until today.

Big Britsh Breakfast

How was it? A little rough around the edges, but I liked it more than Lucky J’s Chicken and Waffles. Some notes:

  • I’d love to see a real menu. They’ve got a printed all day breakfast menu. It looks like they have some pastries and cakes, that they do high tea, and apparently they serve bangers and mash (at least on Friday night). I’d love to be able to find out what else they offer, or even if they do offer other stuff.
  • I can’t tell until I know what they do offer if they need to expand their menu. I’d love to find someplace that does good fish and chips, for example, or meat pies. It looks like they’re trying for at least a beer and wine license; I have hopes that maybe we’ll see some traditional pub grub added.
  • The bangers and back bacon were quite good. The pork is locally sourced, and the sausages are apparently made in house.
  • I recommend against ordering coffee. I’d probably get a soda instead. (They have Mexican Coke, if you’re in the area and want a pure cane sugar fix.)
  • There’s a bit of a slacker vibe to the place, but nowhere near as bad as Lucky J’s. Their music choices were much less obtrusive.
  • Damn, but I want one of those “You Are Now Leaving The American Sector” posters. (The Checkpoint Charlie museum doesn’t seem to have an online shop set up, and Google is no help in finding other sources.)

Would I go back? I want to see these folks make a go of it. I’d have to be in a specific mood to get the English breakfast again, but I’d like to try some of their sandwiches and perhaps pastries as well.

“150 g of pidgeon gizzards”

Friday, April 29th, 2011

We have previously made note of Modernist Cuisine: The Art and Science of Cooking as well as the NYT‘s coverage of same.

Now, also by way of the NYT, we have coverage of the book’s errata. Wouldn’t want to overcook those scrambled eggs there, Bob.

Also, we’ll toss up a link for our great and good friend Glen, who is a big Negroni fan.

Things have been kind of slow this week, and we have also been coming off either a cold or an allergic reaction to all the crap floating around in the air. We are aware TMQ has a new column up (his annual “mock draft”) and plan to blog that in the TMQ Watch, perhaps as early as tonight.

10.5 hour party people.

Monday, April 25th, 2011

Because I’m old and can’t do 24 hours any longer.

This weekend was the combined birthday party/1970’s crime film fest.

No, the cake was not a lie, and I think that came out pretty well. I was impressed that the Sam’s bakery called me to tell me my dates didn’t add up. (They were misreading my handwriting.) Now that’s customer service.

The absinthe went over pretty well, though I think I need to work on proportions. At the recommendation of one of the liquor guys at Spec’s, I’ve been using an Irish coffee glass for absinthe, and my typical pour is two ounces of absinthe, topped off with cold water and one sugar cube. At that level, I can feel an effect. Not anything trippy, just a good solid knock (and that wears off in an hour or so). I think next time I make a glass, I may try two sugar cubes instead of one, but I tend to like things sweet.

The Kraken spiced rum also went over well, though I didn’t care much for it straight; I can see that it would go well with the right mixer (maybe some Dublin Dr. Pepper?). I still haven’t tried any of the Crystal Head. I was trying to be moderate in my drinking, since I had to drive, and as fun as it sounds, drinking Scotch whiskey all night long and dying behind the wheel is a sub-optimal evolutionary strategy.

We only got to two of the movies on our list. Possible spoilers follow.

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Rooms to let, 50 cents…

Wednesday, April 20th, 2011


I haven’t cared much for the food writing in the Statesman recently, but today’s paper has an interesting article by restaurant critic Mike Sutter.

Sutter decided to follow Raymond Tatum, a well-known local chef (Jeffrey’s, the Backstage Steakhouse) from start to opening of his pork-themed trailer eatery, Three Little Pigs.

Tatum’s apparently a big pork guy, and Three Little Pigs intrigues me. But there’s also a couple of things in Sutter’s article that jump out at me and make me say “What. The. Frack!”

For starters, there’s the $700 cell phone bill, because Tatum didn’t get an unlimited talk/text plan. Then there’s the $12,500 “built to order” trailer (when my folks ran a shaved ice trailer, I believe they paid about $10,000 for the trailer used, plus about another $2,000 for equipment): that by itself isn’t unreasonable, but then

A long strip of chrome trim blows off during transport, the floor plates buckle at the seams and have to be rewelded and Tatum spends $1,000 to fix some bad wiring.

There’s no mention that Tatum pursued or obtained compensation from the trailer vendor.

The kitchen gear costs $11,500, including a six-burner gas stove and oven, a two-basket deep fryer, flat-top grill, two-door commercial reach-in refrigerator, stainless steel prep counter with low-boy coolers, steam table, dish sink, hand sink and a cash register.

In Tatum’s first month, the gas line fails, the fryer goes out and the water pump dies when the water system freezes solid.

Also no mention that Tatum pursued or obtained compensation from the people who installed the kitchen equipment. (To be fair, the problem with the water system freezing probably didn’t have anything to do with the people who installed the equipment.)

The costs of doing business are relentless: $460 for city and county fees and permits, $600 a year for a commercial commissary, $1,200 a year for insurance, $150 to pressure-test the propane system, $500 for the gray-water tank. He pays East End Wines $575 a month to park in their lot on Rosewood Avenue and use their bathroom. The city electrical meter costs about a grand, which he’s paying in installments. The propane he cooks with runs $75-$100 a week. His employees get $10 an hour and all the tips.

I wanted to call out that section because of this statement later in the article:

Tatum isn’t sure what he needs to bring in each night to break even.

What? What? He’s running a business and he isn’t sure what he needs to bring in each night to break even?! He’s been a professional chef, he knows what his food costs and his fixed costs are, and he isn’t sure what he needs to bring in each night to break even? He’s open five hours a night Tuesday-Saturday, and he doesn’t know what he needs to bring in to break even?

I’m sorry, but I believe if you’re running a business – any business – and you don’t know what your break-even point is, you shouldn’t be running a business.

On one Tuesday, night, the trailer brings in $212 from a dozen tickets.

and

His best night so far has been $700; his target is $1,000 a day.

I may try to run the numbers later on: if one of my readers wants to try and figure out break-even for Tatum’s trailer, as a public service, feel free. I think most of the information you need is in the article, except possibly the electrical bill and Tatum’s food cost percentage. (It looks like his plates run about $6 per.)

Edited to add: Lawrence and I hashed this over some, and he came up with a set of numbers.

Lawrence figures $25,650 in “sunk costs”, basically the trailer and equipment. (The trailer and kitchen equipment work out to $24,000 alone: the grey water tank and pressure testing the propane system add $650, and $1,000 for the electric meter.) The article notes that Tatum didn’t take out SBA or bank loans, but borrowed money from friends and family. We’ll be generous and figure he doesn’t pay interest, and is amortizing his sunk costs over three years, so that’s $8,333 a year for that time period.

Lawrence came up with $2,720 a year in recurring costs. ($600 a year for the commercial commissary, which you need if you’re actually preparing food in a trailer. City of Austin/Travis County regulation. $1,200 for insurance. $460 for city/county fees and permits.) When I add the numbers, I actually come up with $2,260; I wonder if he added the permits twice.

Monthly recurring costs work out to $925 not counting whatever the electric bill is. ($575/month rent for twelve months = $6900. At $100/week for propane, that’s about $400/month.) Just to make the math easy, let’s use $1,000 a month as recurring monthly costs, with the understanding that this is a conservative estimate.

He’s paying four people $10/hour (plus they get to keep the tips). They’re working six five days a week, five hours a day. That’s 30 25 hours/week. Lawrence comes up with an estimate of $13,000 a month year in wages. I can’t tell from the article if there’s one or two people in the trailer, but let’s figure one (possibly plus Tatum, but we’ll assume Tatum doesn’t pay himself a wage). 30 hours/week * $10/hour * 50 weeks/year (we’ll figure two weeks of vacation, that makes the number simpler) comes out to $15,000 by my calculations, but let’s use Lawrence’s number as a conservative estimate. Note also that it isn’t clear if Tatum is paying Social Security and other taxes, but we’ll assume that he’s above board and legal. That would add a substantial additional sum over the $10/hour that we haven’t considered.

So the recurring yearly costs (at least for the first three years) work out to $36,053 by Lawrence’s estimate, which we both think is conservative. Six Five days a week, 50 weeks a year, that works out to 300 250 days a year, or a fixed cost per day of about $120 $144.

I think target food cost for the average restaurant is typically 30% of the total item cost. Lawrence’s estimate of food cost yearly is $51,054. (Edited to add 3: Lawrence corrects me and says the $51,054 figure is the total of both the fixed costs and the food costs.) Looking at it another way, for every plate he sells at $6, we can figure probably 1/3rd, or $2, goes to food and related costs (plates, plasticware). So that leaves him $4 a plate to pay the other costs. At $120 $144 $204/day in fixed costs, he needs to sell 30 36 34 plates a day on average at $6/each in order to meet those fixed costs, minus his food cost.

If Tatum pays himself just minimum wage, that’s another $15,080 a year.

All of this, by Lawrence’s estimate, works out to a conservative (we think) $66,584 a year cost to run the trailer. Figuring again 300 250 days a year, that’s about $222 $266 a day to break even, or about 37 67 44 plates a day at $6/per.

If you consider things like that cell phone bill, Social Security and other taxes, routine trailer maintenance, and other unanticipated expenses, $300/day or 50 75 plates/day at $6 per seems like a pretty reasonable break-even estimate.

Here’s the worksheet Lawrence provided for me. Sorry it’s a PNG, but I can’t get the formatting to work any other way. Click to embiggen.

Edited to add 2: For some reason, I was basing my calculations on six days a week, not five. Blame it on a synaptic misfire. Or Rio. Corrections are incorporated above.

Notes from the food front for April 15, 2011.

Friday, April 15th, 2011

The Spaghetti Warehouse location in downtown Austin is closing.

That’s kind of a shame, but I think I last ate there maybe two years ago. When I was a kid, going to the Houston location was a rare and special treat. When I moved up here, it was nice to have a reasonably close location to eat at; I had some nice dinners there.

But some years back, the parking situation got out of hand. They didn’t provide any free parking near the restaurant, and it was hard to find parking on the street. Then a few years after that, they changed the menu and got rid of two of my favorite dishes (the mushrooms in garlic butter and the cheese sauce; if any of my readers happen to have a close clone of the cheese sauce, I’d be delighted to get an email). I don’t know what the one in Houston is like these days; I’ll miss the funky decor of the Austin one, but I won’t miss the food.

By way of Jimbo: VegNews has been caught using stock photos of dishes. Worse yet (the horror! the horror!) some of those dishes…contain meat. Here’s a link to a NYT blog entry reporting the scandal. And here’s a link to the mentioned blog post.

I’m actually kind of torn by this. On the one hand, I think if you’re publishing a magazine, you owe a duty of honesty to your readers. Using stock photos to represent things that they are clearly not breaks that duty, from my point of view. I don’t buy the “…it is simply not financially feasible for VegNews at this time” argument. How much do stock photos cost, as opposed to having someone with a digital SLR shoot photos of actual dishes for you? Clearly, VegNews knows how to use PhotoShop if they need to do “enhancements” to photos shot in house. After all, they removed the bones from the stock photo that was supposed to represent a rack of vegan “ribs”.

On the other hand…that blog post is like every bad vegan cliche rolled into one. “…eggs from those poor battery hens that are dead basically from the moment they are born”, “…infused with antibiotics, pain and anguish”, “…pork sausage, oozing in pig fat, fresh from the slaughterhouse”. That blogger is so strident, I find it hard to decide who to root for in this instance.

Oh, wait, no, I don’t find it hard to decide who to root for after all: I’m rooting for this guy.

Achievement unlocked: blogmeet.

Thursday, April 14th, 2011

The staff of WCD met up with the legendary Borepatch, along with bloggers Josh and Matthew, last night at Green Mesquite BBQ.

Borepatch his ownself notes the irony of us using Al Gore’s Internets to plan this meetup, since we spent much of our dinner discussing ways to smash the state (along with how to fix the educational system, where we could go shooting, downtown apartments, SF books, and a whole bunch of other random crap).

We are encouraged by Borepatch’s suggestion that we might be doing this again next time he’s out, and are hopeful that we can get at least a couple of other folks to join us. The honorable Borepatch is a charming and gregarious dining companion; dinner with him is indeed a treat. (Edited to add: We just realized that might be read as slighting Josh and Matthew, so let us make it clear that they’re pretty good guys, too.)